Malacca-where old meets new
Thu, August 10 2006
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Trishaws in Malacca |
At 600 years old, Malacca, Malaysia’s oldest city is a cultural melting pot not to be missed by travelers to Asia.
The historic state was founded by Parameswara, an exiled prince from Sumatra, in 1396.
It can be said that much of the country’s development can be traced back to this historic moment; from the time of its founding, Malacca flourished as a port where merchants and ships from China, India, Europe and Arabia met to trade.
In 1511, it fell into the hands of the Portuguese and subsequently to the Dutch in 1641. From 1826 it was ruled by English East India Company based in Calcutta, along with the company’s other “holdings” of Penang and Singapore.
This colorful backdrop has led to a melting pot of races giving rise to unique blends of food, architecture and festivals.
Apart from the main races - Malays, the Chinese and Indians - Malacca’s residents include, the Cristang, Baba’s and Nyonyas and Chittys.
The Cristang are the descendants of the earliest Portuguese settlers who continue to live mainly in the Portuguese Settlement along Ujong Pasir. Some are fishermen and this is where you can get the a satisfying seafood dinner – spicy fish baked in banana leaves, clams straight from the sea, prawns in sambal and “burnt” crabs baked with black pepper.
The Cristang are a colourful people who love dancing and singing. You can catch them in a festive mood during the Fiesta San Pedro, held in the middle of the year. The festival is dedicated to St Peter, the patron saint of fishermen and for three days, there will be songs, dances and the aroma of Cristang cuisine.
The Chinese presence in Malacca dates back to the 15th Century when Princess Hang Li Poh arrived to be married to Sultan Mansur Shah. She brought with her a huge entourage who settled in the town and inter-married with the local Malays. In time to come, they adopted the Malay language and local customs as well as acquired their tastes in food, giving rise to the peranakan culture that’s peculiar to these Straits-born Chinese. The men are known as baba and the women, nyonya. Babas wear sarung and nyonyas wear baju kebaya but with a difference, the tops are usually embroidered with Chinese motifs.
For a taste of baba culture, head for Jonker Street (Jalan Hang Jebat) and Hereen Street (Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lok) where impossibly narrow streets are flanked by double-storey houses which wealthy babas and nyonyas once called home.
Just like the babas, Chittys are the descendants of Indians who came in the 15th Century and intermarried with the locals. They also dress in Malay clothes and prepare their food Malay style but they are staunch Hindus and observe all the religious Hindu festivals.
Food is unique in Malacca with a wide variety of choices. Nyonya food is a combination of Chinese and Malay delicacies while the notorious devil curry is of Portuguese origin.
Satay celup is a local version of lok-lok (tidbits on skewers dipped into boiling water and then eaten with sauces) that consists of prawns, cockles, vegetables and others on wooden skewers and cooked at the table in a pot of hot satay sauce.
Chicken ball rice is another Malacca creation, where the rice is blended and shaped into balls the size of table tennis balls.
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